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| Sail & Rigging - Steppig the Mast |
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Join Date: 10 March 2009
Posts: 25 |
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Steppig the Mast 55/012 has still it's original Nautor Mast, most of the standing rigging appears original and "hopelessly over sized" as the rigger at the yard put it. Which perhaps it's not a bad thing since she dipped the mast in the water rounding cape-horn at the first whitbread. Now the rigger suggest I step the mast (both actually) for a thourrough inspection. This was last done in 2008. The boat spends about one month in the water and 11 months on a hard stand in Greece. Yes it does blow over there, this summer we recorded 59Kts of apparent wind. There are absolutely no symtoms that would compell me to step the mast at this time. So the question is: for preventive maintenance sake, how ofter do you do it? What is the prudent answer in your view? Note: I had the rigging inspected last year, and nothing particularly was reported (a part from a couple of minor issues with the norseman terminals of the mizzen mast). Greateful for any input and help. Fair Winds Michele |
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Join Date: 06 January 2012
Posts: 67 |
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Hi, I'd say You'd better ask Your insurance company about their opinion how often should it be checked. After all, if You ever loose Your mast overboard You'd propably will be discussing with them about the expences of a new mast and rigging.
Cheers,
IHe
431-12 "CAID" |
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Join Date: 10 March 2009
Posts: 25 |
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Good point! Have you asked yours? what did they say? what do you do? Thanks M |
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Join Date: 06 January 2012
Posts: 67 |
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Hi Michele, the rigging of CAID was replaced some years ago, it was all the insurer (Pantaenius) needed to know at that time we insured it. I really should ask them again. The main shrouds are uncontinious rods and all the other ones are made from SS wire. To be on the safe side the rigging should be checked according to Navteq guidlines, see the link:
http://www.navtecriggingsolutions.com/care---maintenance.html
Not an exact sciense to my eyes what they write there... ;)
BTW I've polished all the stainless steel parts of our rigging to a mirror finish. They look good and are easier to maintain. It might also be it's easier to see any possible deformations or cracks later on.
IHe
431-12 "CAID"
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Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547 |
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Dear Michele It appears that your 55 does not clock up many miles, but she is still in a corrosive environment, and it is suggested that particular emphasis is put on this aspect. Very thorough inspection could postpone the removal of the mast, but still I would suggest this is done every 10th year or so.
I have the impression that insurance companies do not consider rig scantlings, but apply their general policy for rigs. The policies may vary slightly between companies.
Needs to be mentioned that Germanischer Lloyd have rules for rig approval, but they refer for yachts over 24 m length. Were developed when too many big boat carbon masts fell down in the beginning.
It is a good idea to polish the rigging, if there is any rust you should suspect a crack under it.
Kind regards
Lars
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Join Date: 10 March 2009
Posts: 25 |
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Thank you very much Lars, I had an inspection carried out this year, and based on what I hear I shall have the masts un steppend next year or in 2018 at the latest. Since we are on the topic, what is your view on painting original Nautor masts (or proctor for the mizzen)? My masts are neither anodized nor painted. Pitting is apparent here and there. Thanks for your input. M  Pitting on mast |
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Join Date: 10 March 2009
Posts: 25 |
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Thanks for your input! M |
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Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547 |
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Dear Michele Painting will enhance the appearance of your masts, and is easier to do when the masts are not anodized. Anodizing would prevent the paint from sticking well to the surface, and it must be removed before painting.
The preparation of the surface and priming are very important parts of the job for achieving a proper result.
With the time panting begins to flake off from edges and corners, and this ultimately determines when renewal is due.
Kind regards
Lars
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Join Date: 03 February 2011
Posts: 39 |
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Could it please be advised if bolt at lower part turnbuckle can be easily dismantled for inspection and also for surface treatment? Those on `Caid`look great!
Thorbjorn/Ravn 411/36 |
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Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547 |
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Dear Thorbjörn Assume you mean the pins attaching the turnbuckle lower end toggles?
These pins are pressed into place, and can not be removed
Kind regards
Lars
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Join Date: 02 February 2007
Posts: 202 |
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Hello everyone. May I add that a place to be checked is the bottom part of the mast, where it rests on the mast shoe. It is really prone to corrosion as the shoe is stainless steel, and sometimes not isolated from the mast by tufnol sheet, and also water may accumulate there if the drains are choked. This has been discussed in a previous link. All the best. Philippe 41/022 |
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Join Date: 10 March 2009
Posts: 25 |
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Dear Lars, eventually I have decided to step the mast, this is going to happen on the 20th of May. We will see what turns up. As this job is being carried out it is a good opportunity to review the Turnbuckle cover situation. When I bought 055/12 it had stitched leather covers. Pretty but horrible to inspect and they do not last long. Last year I had some rather naff velcro/vynil cheap covers made up. Can live with those as they can be inspected, but .... When she went round the world in the first Withbread, from the pictures I had, it had long alluminum tubes in a mat finish. I've seen some Swans sailing with polished tubes. What is your reccomendation on the subject? Dyameters involved are quite large, and long. Selden Turnbuckle covers are perhaps an option, but again not a particularly pretty one. Thanks for any input. Michele  |
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Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547 |
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Dear Michele Thank you for the photo.
Leather covers are not recommended
The original turnbuckle covers were of aluminium tubing with anodized finish. If you prefer polished stainless this only means a change of the tube material, the ends are plastic and remain the same.
Maybe you noted that Selden covers do not rotate. The original covers can rotate, and this makes it easier for the genoa to pass over the turnbuckle and cover.
Will see if I can find some specifications. Dimensions for your turnbuckles and chainplates would be required.
The main shroud lower toggle position looks a little odd?
Kind regards
Lars
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Join Date: 29 January 2007
Posts: 1018 |
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Dear Michele, I agree with Lars, the original one, Nautor made, could rotate and were fabolous, I had them on 38/067 Only You. As 47/069 Vanessa did not have either alluminum tubes or leather covers (nice but not really practical), I bought the Selden ones (pls see photo below, and they do not rotate), a good even if not perfect commercial product, check their catalogue as as far as I remember they just have two measures. Fair winds! matteo (47/069 Vanessa)  |
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Join Date: 10 March 2009
Posts: 25 |
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Dear Michele Thank you for the photo.
Leather covers are not recommended
The original turnbuckle covers were of aluminium tubing with anodized finish. If you prefer polished stainless this only means a change of the tube material, the ends are plastic and remain the same.
Maybe you noted that Selden covers do not rotate. The original covers can rotate, and this makes it easier for the genoa to pass over the turnbuckle and cover.
Will see if I can find some specifications. Dimensions for your turnbuckles and chainplates would be required.
The main shroud lower toggle position looks a little odd?
Kind regards
Lars
Thanks Professor! Dimensions are not readily available as the boat is in Greece, and I'm in Milano. When I'll go down there in June I'll see what I can get. Thank you in any case for the input. As for the lower toggle, you can clearly see stuff that I cannot! What do you mean? Best M |
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Join Date: 10 March 2009
Posts: 25 |
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Grazie Matteo, I remember we discussed the issue last summer! Best Michele |
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Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547 |
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Dear Michele In your photo posted 28 April it appears that the main shroud toggle is partly recessed into the deck. Is this really the case?
Kind regards
Lars
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