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S&S Swan Maintenance - Removing the teak Deck
15 April 2013 - 15:27
#1
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ccolton
Join Date: 15 April 2011
Posts: 393

Removing the teak Deck

Dear members,

I thought I had already started a thread about the teak deck removal on my boat but was unable to find it.  So, here's an update:  About 3/4 of the port side is off and the leaks have not abated - just moved.  This is probably true because, although I am filling the holes, some of the fittings, around the chainplates for example, are leaking.  I think I need to keep at it and just get it done as soon as possible.

I am able to recove the top layer of teak (yes, someone actually laid a teak deck on top of a teak deck) but it goes slowly.  And although i have not planed off the worn top of the teak, I believe it is flat-sawn and not quarter-sawn as would be used by Swan.

Professor, my biggest concern is deck deflection which i believe is the result of worn out stringers - the wood inside the stringers appears, in some cases, to be saturated.  Can you please advise me on this?  I don't believe that my current plan of sealing the deck affects how I proceed, but your input would be greatly appreciated.

With warm regards,

Chris 
15 April 2013 - 20:15
#2
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the professor
Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547

Dear Chris
Deck deflection is not uncommon on Swan 43's, and when the teak deck is removed this becomes more noticeable. Double teak decks are not unheard of, this saves a considerable amount of time, but some next owner is in for a surprise. The double teak deck probably has hidden the deck deflection.
Gluing the new teak deck to the GRP would improve the stiffness, but the stiffeners may also need some attention. Believe there is foam inside the stringers. Suggest you drill holes in their sides to let water out, and try to determine whether the deflection is mainly between the stiffeners, or in them.
Kind regards
Lars
15 April 2013 - 21:03
#3
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ccolton
Join Date: 15 April 2011
Posts: 393

Dear Lars,

Thank you. I have not noticed if the deflection is between the stiffeners or not - I will try to determine this next time at the boat. I am hoping to repair all leaks and then use Awlgrip and non-skid as the new deck. A true teak deck is a future project that may not happen!

I will try to relieve the water as you suggest - should be easy to try since the entire headliner is down.

With warm regards,
Chris
16 April 2013 - 03:54
#4
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hnakajima
Join Date: 20 February 2007
Posts: 119

Hi Chris:

I know that Swan 43 Deneb (Roger Merrill) in the Boston area removed her teak decks about 6 or 7 years ago. Roger may be able to help you with any deck questions you may have. He is in the member list.

Regards,

Hiro
22 April 2013 - 15:19
#5
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ccolton
Join Date: 15 April 2011
Posts: 393

Hi Hiro,

Thank you!  I may give Roger a call.  In the meantime, as you might have guessed, the Professor has been guiding me throughout the entire process and prove, as always, invaluable.  I feel like I might even make it through - let's home the Professor can continue to show patience in the face of my barrage of questions - some good and others...more obvious!

Anyway, attached are pictures of our progress.  The water intrusion is killing me!

Chris
23 April 2013 - 02:56
#6
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hnakajima
Join Date: 20 February 2007
Posts: 119

Chris:

You've made great progress. The light at the end of the tunnel looks very near.

I assume that you are not going to put down a new teak deck after this.

Good luck,

Hiro
23 April 2013 - 15:04
#7
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ccolton
Join Date: 15 April 2011
Posts: 393

Dear Hiro,

I currently plan to mix awlgrip non-skid into awlgrip's off-white 2-part LPU paint.  

 
While removing the teak and plugging all the holes (millions?) I have been struggling to design the deck layout; e.g., non-skid in sections; windlass and hatches; etc., surrounded with smooth paint.  I still have not found any general rules such as those that exist for building furniture, for example.

 
With regard to the teak deck, with the exception of the really bad section of deck that I removed initially, we have been able to successfully reclaim the top layer of teak.  It is approximately 5/8 inches thick and generally in good condition.  I hand-planed a small piece yesterday and was rewarded with a beautiful piece of quarter-sawn golden teak.  So, I am not sure if I can replace this at some point, or sell it.  I know I will need to buy carbide blades for my planer to mill the wood and will have to purchase additional teak.  This is probably a project for another time, but very tempting!

Oh the choices!

In the end, I will likely paint!
 
With warm regards,
 
Chris
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