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S&S Swan Maintenance - 411 work questions for the professor

16 July 2008 - 15:09 #1 Post Reply
pippo lionni Join Date: 04 March 2007 Posts: 41
411 work questions for the professor Dear Professor, I just bought an S&S Swan 411 and sailed it from Trinidad to Perpignan France and I have a few unresolved questions that you might be able to help me with. 1) during the crossing we took on some water mostly from poorly sealed holes in the fore cabin area following work done on a new deck, the salt water mixed with what i think is diesel to create a think gunk in the bilge, I can't find any leaks in the fuel lines so the only place i can imagine it coming from is from the fuel/water separator that is found near to the bilge on the STB side - ever experience anything like this before? 2) in going over and tightening all the through deck bolts I found some to just turn free. Either the nuts are broken or slipped out of place. The S&S swans of that era all have the nuts imbedded in the roof structure so there is no way to get at them - what is the best way to deal with this? 3) the wood around the fixed windows in the saloon is in fair shape, i found moisture in the area during rough seas and believe the water tightness to be wishful thinking, what should i know before taking the windows apart ? 4) the 411 has a cockpit locker for the life raft, any idea what rafts fit in the space? 5) for the moment there is a Perkins 4.108 with a Gori 3 blade folding prop. I don't motor much but when I don't find much power forward of in reverse. What do you recommend for replacement of one or the other or both? Thanks in advance Pippo Lionni

17 July 2008 - 08:19 #2 Post Reply
Pippo Thank you for your message 1) Leaking diesel would produce a strong smell, and "thick gunk" indicates that some other stuff may be involved. Suggest you flush the bilges thoroughly with fresh water, starting from the ends, and also flush from the topsides down where possible. There should be a limber hole chain in the bilge running from bow to stern, by pulling on the chain blocked limber holes can be opened 2) Deck fitting bolts are either threaded into aluminium back-up plates, or have nuts. Remove the overhead panels to see their lower ends. If the threads in some back-up plates are gone put nuts on the bolts 3) The windows are held by the frames on the outside. The frames are not metal but GRP, and should be removed with care in order not to break them. It is very important that there is a wide enough groove for sealant around the perimeter of the window acrylic, at least 5 mm recommended, and a groove depth equal to acrylic thickness. Further put sealant under the frame when reassembling. 4) The life raft locker was sized for the commonly used raft in the 1970:s, the brand was Beaufort if I remember correctly. The locker dimensions are believed to be 770 x 350 x 370 mm, but suggest you check this. The verified dimensions are needed for finding a suitable raft. 5) Many 4.108:s are still working fine, and if the engine starts easily and otherwise is healthy it could still serve well. A little more information is required referring to the reported lack of power: What is the high idling rpm (full throttle in neutral), and the full throttle speed and rpm in forward gear? Is there black smoke at full throttle, or also at lower rpms? Are the propeller dimensions known? Kind regards Lars

17 July 2008 - 08:19

Post Reply

The Professor

Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547

Pippo

Thank you for your message

1) Leaking diesel would produce a strong smell, and "thick gunk" indicates that some other stuff may be involved. Suggest you flush the bilges thoroughly with fresh water, starting from the ends, and also flush from the topsides down where possible. There should be a limber hole chain in the bilge running from bow to stern, by pulling on the chain blocked limber holes can be opened

2) Deck fitting bolts are either threaded into aluminium back-up plates, or have nuts. Remove the overhead panels to see their lower ends. If the threads in some back-up plates are gone put nuts on the bolts

3) The windows are held by the frames on the outside. The frames are not metal but GRP, and should be removed with care in order not to break them. It is very important that there is a wide enough groove for sealant around the perimeter of the window acrylic, at least 5 mm recommended, and a groove depth equal to acrylic thickness. Further put sealant under the frame when reassembling.

4) The life raft locker was sized for the commonly used raft in the 1970:s, the brand was Beaufort if I remember correctly. The locker dimensions are believed to be 770 x 350 x 370 mm, but suggest you check this. The verified dimensions are needed for finding a suitable raft.

5) Many 4.108:s are still working fine, and if the engine starts easily and otherwise is healthy it could still serve well. A little more information is required referring to the reported lack of power: What is the high idling rpm (full throttle in neutral), and the full throttle speed and rpm in forward gear? Is there black smoke at full throttle, or also at lower rpms? Are the propeller dimensions known?

Kind regards

Lars

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