Do you want to be informed on new Posts on this Thread? (members only)

S&S Swan Maintenance - Deck Hatch Removal
03 February 2009 - 20:11
#1
Post Reply
hnakajima
Join Date: 20 February 2007
Posts: 119

Deck Hatch Removal

Has anyone removed their center deck hatch?  I am considering removing the original Goiot? center deck hatch on my Swan 43. 

I did not want to insert any wedge device under the hatch frame flange as this would damage the wood deck trim and also potentially distort the hatch frame.

The hatch is bedded very well into the deck opening and it does not move at all when I try to pull up on the hatch frame assembly.  Does anyone have any experience with removing the hatch?  I am trying to overhaul this unit in order to re-install into the original deck opening.

Hiro
04 February 2009 - 20:19
#2
Post Reply
The professor
Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547

Hiro

If the hatch is held by a bedding compound heating the frame may soften it, but would suggest max 60 deg C (140 deg F)

Lars 
09 February 2009 - 20:19
#3
Post Reply
hnakajima
Join Date: 20 February 2007
Posts: 119

Hello Lars:

Thank you for your suggestion.  I will try heating the hatch frame.  Any concerns that heating may damage anodized finish?

Regards,

Hiro

 
10 February 2009 - 21:20
#4
Post Reply
The professor
Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547

Hiro

Anodization consists of aluminum oxide, a very hard and lasting material.

The suggested temperature is not detrimental to this layer.

The polyester resin sets the limit.

Lars 
13 April 2009 - 11:57
#5
Post Reply
philippev
Join Date: 02 February 2007
Posts: 202

Hello Hiro.

On 41/022 we had to take out the central hatch when we have replaced the teak deck, and rebuilt all wooden frames.

Taking off the hatch was hard work, simply using a sharp knife, and as far as I can remember, the frame ended up being slightly bent. Straightening it back to shape  was not a big issue. We have been using silicone sealant to put it back on the deck, and have no leak there.

By the way I do not quite understand why Nautor seems so much against the use of silicone  which is so much easier to take away than sikaflex when maintenance needs to be done (professor please??).

Hope this helps.

Kind regards
13 April 2009 - 13:05
#6
Post Reply
danielefua
Join Date: 30 January 2007
Posts: 462

Hi,
the critical question is whether the mastic needs to keep the parts together or the parts are fastened by some other mean and the mastic purpose is just of sealing.
Then, of course, there are many intermediate cases.
Until, say, 30 years ago there were no commercially available good adhesives and the mastic purpose was only of the second kind. Now there are and sometimes it is quicker and less expensive to use adhesives instead of mechanical bonding.
Useless to say that a mere sealing compound is easy to take away; a good adhesive's duty is not to be taken away easily...
unless the proper solvent is used!
Daniel, 411-004
14 April 2009 - 09:54
#7
Post Reply
philippev
Join Date: 02 February 2007
Posts: 202

Hi everyone!

I believe there are at least 12 screws holding the aluminium hatch on the wooden frame, so as far as mechanics is concerned no need for additional gluing. As far as I am concerned I always prefer easy to take apart solutions as long as the main problem - waterproofing in that case - is concerned. So I used silicone, and did not face any problem.

By the way I also use silicone - or waterproof grease - each time I am putting a stainless steel screws in aluminium, and do really regret that Nautor did not do the same on our boat, especially for mast fittings. The original screws are stuck solid, I have no problem taking apart mine even after 20 years.

Lars: is there a problem I missed with silicone?

Happy maintenance, and hopefully also happy sailing!
  • Threads : 1708
  • Posts : 10237
  • Members: 821
  • Online Members: 0