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| S&S Swan Maintenance - SOS Professor hull windows 47 |
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Join Date: 05 February 2007
Posts: 102 |
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SOS Professor hull windows 47    |
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Join Date: 05 February 2007
Posts: 102 |
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From sunny Gaeta, (that's important right now) after a very wet winter decided to take out the long hull windows as there was damage from infiltration going on. excuse my lack of technical language as always, but this "little" project is quite a challenge. have attached photos for your help in understanding the current situation and where I am on this. would very much appreciate any pointers, hints, suggestions, moral support that is available, and a of course Lars your insight is most valuable to all of us on such issues. think it is visible, but just in case. have taken off the fiberglass bearing ring and taken out the silcone and sanded down to the bare fiberglass. have removed 30 years of caulking, glue, silicone from flange. have removed the inner aluminum profile (which is compromised) and cleaned off the sandwich which thankfully has not delaminated. am leaving all in the open to dry out. worst damage is the plywood/fiberglass support frame where the holes for the bearing ring are. should I dig deeper here, as the wood is rotted? current plan is to rebuild with west system and microspheres and from there.....??? best to use sikaflex in the bearing ring? what material is best for the lexon window seat in the flange? was thinking evoflex. look forward to comments and appreciate little prayers too.... thanks! Jayne Aorangi 47/047 hi all, have decided in lack of further input to drill 8mm holes (and 10mm where necessary)in the old holes in order to dry things out. and just for kicks, this was the "good" window, as the starboard is far more damaged, and the frame below the flange is completely infiltrated in spots. what a mess. but this too is "life on board" and will try to do a better job than the numerous interventions by the "qualified" yards that have intervened to date. they are ALL visible. trying not to make the same mistakes...as always all considerations are precious. would rather do it right and take more time, than just do it. thanks in advance to all brave souls that wish to venture in.
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Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547 |
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Jayne The pictures really help. Suggest you first do the inside. If the wood has suffered you could either rebuild with epoxy and microspheres as suggested, and then glue a new veneer onto the surface, or rip out the whole wood piece, and replace it. In the latter case it would be possible to reinforce the cracked frame corners by adding some UD laminate locally on the inside of the coaming before the wood is put back. If new aluminium profiles are needed it is suggested you contact spareparts@nautors-swan.com and ask if still available. Your decision to drill out the screw holes is a good one, after drying fill them with epoxy and microspheres, but these should not be of the hard variety, that may make drilling difficult. On the outside it needs to be checked whether silicon was used at some stage, if this is the case the problem is that nothing will stick properly to the affected surface. Car painting shops have strong solvents for the removal of silicon car wax, suggest you try that. The original windows were of acrylic, Lexan would mean they have been replaced. The sealant needs to be compatible with the window material, Sikaflex 295 UV is suggested, see Sikaflex Marine Handbook for detailed instructions. Particularly note the recommended adhesive thickness, and expansion gap. Suggest you fill the void behind the outside frame with sealant, particularly around the screws. Evoflex is a flooring material, and probably not suitable for window sealing. Assume you will have further questions, pls feel free to ask Kind regards Lars |
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