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| S&S Swan Maintenance - 411 electric anchor windlass |
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Join Date: 19 July 2007
Posts: 66 |
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411 electric anchor windlass Hi The 411. I have recently aquired has no anchor windlass. I am considering a Lofrans vertical electric windlass. Before I purchase the equipment and cut holes in the deck, it would be very useful to hear from owners that have a successful installation. I would be interested in how well the chain stows below, how any waterproofing has been taken care of and any other tips anyone may have. Regards Paul |
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Join Date: 02 February 2007
Posts: 202 |
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Hello. you should go around the website as there already has been long discussions about anchor chain storage, and positions. One possibility is to send the chain between the two front pipecots instead of using the original storage bin. The professor suggested making a box 30cmX30cm with sufficient hight so as to avoid chain blockage (10mm chain). Fairwinds. Philippe 41/022 |
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Join Date: 19 July 2007
Posts: 66 |
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Philippe Thanks for that, I will look back in the posts. Regards Paul 411 042 |
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Join Date: 03 December 2007
Posts: 22 |
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Hi Paul, I have recently just removed the old Simpson & Lawrence (Lewmar) vertical windlass from my Swan 40 to repair as the bearing at deck level has rusted solid, I have never used it as we bought the boat as a restoration project and have only recently put her back in the water so I have no idea if the installation works well or not. However I plan to re-fit the windlass this weekend so as long as my camera works I can take some photo’s for you if you like. Is there anything in particular you would like to see? Best Wishes Jason (Can-Can IV – 40/29) |
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Join Date: 01 February 2007
Posts: 234 |
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Paul, FYI I fitted a Lewmar V3 S/S horizontal without rope gipsy. I also fitted a Lewmar chain stopper in line. I have a removeable piece of plywood layed from the winch to the roller to protect the deck. The windlass is fitted directly above the dividing wall in the chain locker so that when wet chain is recovered it can be lead into the forward compartment which is self draining. I have layed some plastic web matting on the floor of this compartment to allow the chain to sit above any water. On the top of the dividing wall I have cut and placed a piece of plastic pipe to stop any rubbing by the chain. When the chain is dry I move it to the lower and further aft compartment to get the weight further back and lower down. You will find the 411 sensitive to weight at the front. I made the mistake of not getting the chain gipsy matched to my old chain so had to buy a new chain, 50 meters of 3/8th calibrated chain which is joined to 50 meters of warp. Good news you got your 411. Fair winds John B Avista |
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Join Date: 19 July 2007
Posts: 66 |
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Jason Thanks for the offer of the photos. The layout of your 40 is slightly different than the 411 so I will need to carry out the installation differently, but thanks anyway. Regards Paul |
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Join Date: 19 July 2007
Posts: 66 |
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John Thanks for the information.Do I understand that you have cut part of the first small bulkhead away to allow the chain to be taken either into the foremost part of the bow or to take the fall of the chain into the main forepeak? Is the windlass on the centre line, or off to starboard in line with the bow roller? You are correct about not having the weight of chain too far foward, there are a number of 41`s and 411`s that trim well down by the bow probably due to this. Best Regards Paul |
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