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S&S Swan General - Considering purchasing a Swan 37
07 August 2010 - 01:45
#1
Join Date: 06 August 2010
Posts: 24

Considering purchasing a Swan 37
Dear Forum Members,
I'm considering purchasing a 37, but beforehand would like some information on a number of areas with regards to the boat and would be very grateful for your help.

As I plan to do some two-handed offshore racing and never having sailed a 37, I would like to know a little about their sailing characteristics.

Firstly, I understand their rudder design is a little short on surface area & depth, and like early S&S Tartan 41's they can be a bit 'hard mouthed' close reaching in a moderate to strong breeze if a large headsail is carried. I would like to know if anyone has experience of a 37 with a rudder modification and if such a modification cures the problem or possibly if setting a high aspect ratio jib instead of a genoa might help alleviate this.

Secondly I would also like to know how they perform downwind in 20knts+ under spinnaker, particularly at sea and also if there are certain techniques, similar to those successfully applied to other IOR yachts with pinched ends, which help prevent exaggerated rolling when maximum hull speed is reached under spinnaker.

Thirdly, I would like to know how well balanced the 37 is in terms of her design characteristics? I much prefer tiller steered yachts and good balance is one of my highest priorities, not just in terms of sailing enjoyment, but I also believe a well balanced yacht is less tiring on her crew and creates less wear on autopilots. These factors are important in my consideration of finding a suitable yacht for double-handed offshore racing, aside from just rating well.

Finally are their any specific areas of weakness to look out for in terms of the boat not receiving correct the maintenance and care aside from teak decking, rig/sails, mechanicals, electrics and plumbing? (e.g known water traps, poorly ventilated areas etc.)
Also, has anyone tried sanding back the lower parts of Koto veneers that are prone to damp and saturating the bare timber surface with thinned clear epoxy(possibly using WEST system),then building up a following 3/4 coats in thickness as a preventative treatment to combat the inevitable damp staining?

Many thanks in advance for your assistance in these matters,

Happy Sailing and my best regards to all,

Brian O'Neill.


07 August 2010 - 11:41
#2
Join Date: 02 February 2007
Posts: 126

Brian, judging by your questions you have researched buying a 37 thoroughly. I admit to being biased having owned one for several years. I did some short handed racing in mine - we came 3rd in the Yachting Monthly Triangle race (UK, Brittany and Ireland) in 1988. You are right in my opinion about the rudder and the people I would suggest contacting for advice are Jamestown Boatyard who I know have modified rudders on 44's. Clem Napolitano is the principal. Playing around with the sails will have little impact and I would only say its an issue on a windy reach. Upwind she is delightful.
Dead downwind in heavy air none of these boats are perfect. We had some old Bruce Banks Starcut narrow shouldered spinnakers which were very stable in these conditions and we pulled the sheet and guy down hard amidships to snatch blocks. Sailed like this she was fine.
As far as the Koto is concerned, please see previous posts. I don't think you will ever get it to look right.
As to other points, mine had a standard sophisticated rig that had the uppers and lowers in line so that you could rock the whole rig forwards and backwards, it also had lenticular (aerofoil) rod rigging. Our only problem with the single spreader short rig is that it would "stick" in light airs and the taller rig would be better and the boat is very stiff and could carry a taller rig in my opinion.
Our only other problem was that we slieved the bottom of the mast which had corroded at the step and also made sure that the drain holes there were clear so water didn't stay trapped.
I hope this helps and good luck with you search. Gavin

08 August 2010 - 23:11
#3
Join Date: 07 June 2010
Posts: 24

Dear Brian,

I don't have any experience with a Swan 37, so I can't answer most of your questions. But concerning the koto, maybe Cees van Nes, owner of Swan 55 Ellinor, can give you some advice. He has restored his 55 extensively and Ellinor also has the koto interior. On the photographs on his website, the interior looks fabulous, so maybe he can help. You can contact him through his website http://www.swan55.nl.

Best regards,

Gerrit
Mandate 47/001

11 August 2010 - 12:33
#4
Join Date: 06 August 2010
Posts: 24

Brian, judging by your questions you have researched buying a 37 thoroughly. I admit to being biased having owned one for several years. I did some short handed racing in mine - we came 3rd in the Yachting Monthly Triangle race (UK, Brittany and Ireland) in 1988. You are right in my opinion about the rudder and the people I would suggest contacting for advice are Jamestown Boatyard who I know have modified rudders on 44's. Clem Napolitano is the principal. Playing around with the sails will have little impact and I would only say its an issue on a windy reach. Upwind she is delightful. Dead downwind in heavy air none of these boats are perfect. We had some old Bruce Banks Starcut narrow shouldered spinnakers which were very stable in these conditions and we pulled the sheet and guy down hard amidships to snatch blocks. Sailed like this she was fine. As far as the Koto is concerned, please see previous posts. I don't think you will ever get it to look right. As to other points, mine had a standard sophisticated rig that had the uppers and lowers in line so that you could rock the whole rig forwards and backwards, it also had lenticular (aerofoil) rod rigging. Our only problem with the single spreader short rig is that it would "stick" in light airs and the taller rig would be better and the boat is very stiff and could carry a taller rig in my opinion. Our only other problem was that we slieved the bottom of the mast which had corroded at the step and also made sure that the drain holes there were clear so water didn't stay trapped. I hope this helps and good luck with you search. Gavin

Gavin,
Thank you for your help. This information is very helpful and my thoughts are now turned towards looking for a well cared for boat with the taller rig.
From my research I understand one boat, 'Aries' has had her rudder modified to a design by Bill Langan (see file attached). It would be interesting to hear what her owner thinks of this modification.
My thoughts are similar to yours regarding downwind sailing in S&S IOR designs in breeze and I'm glad you've confirmed what I had guessed about the 37.
My wife also owns design no. 2065, a SHE 27, with somewhat similar proportions in design to the 37's underwater profile. We've found by that using the same technique you mention and also over-sheeting the main & kicker to prevent exhaust air escaping from the top end of the main's leech into the spinnaker, this helps make the boat much more controllable in the gusts. She just squats and acceleration is much more even.
My guess is the escaping airflow creates/adds to the imbalance by causing the head of the spinnaker to wander from side to side exaggerating or inducing the boat to roll particularly as she tries to 'climb over' her hull speed.

I'll also look very carefully at any boat's mast heel & mast step & contact Clem with regards to a rudder modification to get his thoughts on the matter.

Thank you Gavin, really helpful info.

Best Regards,

Brian.

11 August 2010 - 13:29
#5
Join Date: 06 August 2010
Posts: 24

Thank you Gerrit for your help,
My thoughts are if I purchase a 37 she'll more than likely be finished in Koto.
As I intend to race her, wet sails, more wear and tear will be inevitable in the form of chips & dings to varnish work, and also more damp, particularly around the lower parts of the saloon where I gather, the problem is most prevalent.

The reason I suggested an epoxy/epoxy varnish preventative treatment to these potentially problematic areas is because I also race a composite Fireball with epoxy varnished Sapele decks. The fore and stern decks are wafer thin to keep weight out of the ends and I've been pleasantly surprised at the abuse, not just the decks, but the cockpit also, has stood up to over two and a half years of ownership. The boat is raced regularly during both summer and winter and has had just a week in the garage during this time to dry out and have an additional coat of epoxy varnish applied (Epifanes). There are a number of indents caused by the inevitable wear and tear a racing dinghy gets but the overall finish remains unbroken protecting the decks below from damp.

If I do purchase a Koto finished 37 I'll contact Cees for his thoughts and advice on curing/preventing damp from causing this problem. Looking at Ellinor's website, she can only be described as a true labour of love!

Thanks again, Gerrit,

Best regards,

Brian.

19 August 2010 - 11:56
#6
Join Date: 26 April 2010
Posts: 33

dear, we own Croix du Cygne and w ehave a successfully adapted rudder; in 20 knts plus spinake conditions for sure fast response is required but with a relative big, fast tiller movement she clearly understands what is required and reacts accordingly. balancing her is not a concern, at least not with our 125% genua in combination with main in first reef. For heavier conditions on the atlantic or as spare forstay a inner stay can be mounted, about a meter behind the forstay. For this a reinfocement underdecks has been build to pick up the tention of the deck mount. With this balance in heavy weather condictions is improved and independence from the reckmann furler is also a pre when the going get's relay tough.

 

30 August 2010 - 23:03
#7
Join Date: 06 August 2010
Posts: 24

dear, we own Croix du Cygne and w ehave a successfully adapted rudder; in 20 knts plus spinake conditions for sure fast response is required but with a relative big, fast tiller movement she clearly understands what is required and reacts accordingly. balancing her is not a concern, at least not with our 125% genua in combination with main in first reef. For heavier conditions on the atlantic or as spare forstay a inner stay can be mounted, about a meter behind the forstay. For this a reinfocement underdecks has been build to pick up the tention of the deck mount. With this balance in heavy weather condictions is improved and independence from the reckmann furler is also a pre when the going get's relay tough.

 

Many thanks for this information and your help, Aernoud.
May I contact you again for more detail on your rudder modification when I purchase a 37?
I'm currently looking for a tiller steered boat with the taller rig.
By the way 'Croix du Cygne' looks fantastic in the photos you posted.

Best regards,

Brian.

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