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S&S Swan General - Folding or feathering on Swan 40 |
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Join Date: 05 February 2007
Posts: 5 |
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Folding or feathering on Swan 40 Hello Anyone Who has experience with folding propellars on the 40. Does anyone have a folding propellar that makes it possible to go backwards without turning to one side, in my case stb propellar walk. much to much
Does anyone have a featering propellar on the 40. How does it work, and can it work with a Borgwarner hydraulic gear, without shaft brake. Kaj "Ophelia" |
Join Date: 02 February 2007
Posts: 202 |
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Hello Ophelia. On our Swan 41 we replaced the original Nautor folding prop by a feathering one: a max prop. There is stil a lot of prop walk but at least you will go backwards and not only sideways as with a folding prop. So you have to use the propwalk to manoever. I understand that Matteo has replaced his own Max Prop by an other feathering prop and would also be interested by the reasons and improvements noticed. In any case we are very happy with our Maxprop. Kind regards and merry Christmas. |
Join Date: 29 January 2007
Posts: 1024 |
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Dear S&S Friends, |
Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 21 |
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Hello Matteo,
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Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 21 |
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Mateo, forgot to ask you which diameter did you order on prop saw on previous message 16" is that correct?
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Join Date: 29 January 2007
Posts: 1024 |
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Dear John, |
Join Date: 01 February 2007
Posts: 234 |
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Hi, I can support what has been said by Matteo and others. I have a four bladed Vari- Prop on my 411 . Very good product. John Bailey
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Join Date: 30 January 2007
Posts: 462 |
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Hi, I can support what has been said by Matteo and others. I have a four bladed Vari- Prop on my 411 . Very good product. John Bailey
Hi John,
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Join Date: 01 February 2007
Posts: 234 |
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I replaced the shaft and copling at the time of fitting the new engine. The prop manufacturers did the calculations to confirm size and pitch of the prop given the HP and gearbox ratio of the engine. I am sure you are aware that you have to take the engine off the mounts to withdraw the shaft as it can only come out via the inside of the yacht due to the distance of the skeg from the cutlass bearing being shorter than the length of the shaft. The taper and key way at the end of the shaft had to be machined to the prop, but this was not a big job. Routine for any good machine shop. I changed the cutlass bearing at the same tme. What is important is the distance the prop is from the cutlass bearing. Too far then the shaft oscilates from the weight of the prop creating vibration. I am told that the max distance should be 50 % of the diameter of the shaft. i.e. if shaft is 1.5 inches then max distance should be .75 but you see many installations with a bigger gap.
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Join Date: 12 June 2007
Posts: 39 |
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Hi John
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