Teak deck screws
I am preparing to replace some of the existing screws in my teak deck. The plan is to replace the existing screws with new screws using the existing screw holes and then re-bunging the hole.
My question is should any sealant such as 5200 or 4200 by 3M be squeezed into the existing screw hole before inserting the new screw?
The wood bung will be set into the hole with a little varnish.

Hello,

First I am surprised that you to change existing screws with new screws! I guess that you want to change them since they show up or so? I would not do that. In my past and present boats I have successfully done the following:

1- Remove the screws.

2- Clean the holes by drilling carefully and use the vacuum cleaner to remove dust and wood rests.

3- Purr epoxy glue such as a suitable West System Epoxy System in the hole, let it sink, refill until the epoxy does not sink anymore.

4- Put a plug - no screws at all - wait one or two days, sand and voilà, you have an excellent result.

This system works for me perfectly well. Good luck.

 Philippe Daudi

(47-050 Farouche)

Thanks for your input Philippe.
Did you find that the adhesion of the teak deck was still satisfactory without the wood screws? The reason for my plan to replace the wood screws was to achieve more depth to allow new teak plugs to seat properly. My teak decks were replaced in the mid 1980s using wood screws and polysulfide bedding and no epoxy like newer deck installation.
Regards,
Hiro

Hi Hiro,

If the work that I have described is well done, the result is excellent. Allow me to tell why new screws may not do any good: (1) the hole of the screws are still the same, unless you plan to fit thicker screws - not recommended. (2) Larger/longer screws may damage the divinycell under the skin of your deck. (3) the part of the teak holding the screws is certainly worn out and incapable of retaining any screw.

All things considered, the point of attachment of the screw through the teak to the deck is the screw itself. The epoxy that I mentioned before, will expand under a larger area than the screw head and will firmly hold the teak to the deck. This will work even better if some of your teak is loosely attached to the deck in some parts. The expanding epoxy under the deck will get hold of a larger area of the teak.

Perhaps other people in the forum have other experiences to share with you.

Good luck

Philippe Daudi (47/050 Farouche)

Thanks for your input Philippe. Did you find that the adhesion of the teak deck was still satisfactory without the wood screws? The reason for my plan to replace the wood screws was to achieve more depth to allow new teak plugs to seat properly. My teak decks were replaced in the mid 1980s using wood screws and polysulfide bedding and no epoxy like newer deck installation. Regards, Hiro

I had a similar situation on my swan 41 about 16 years ago. The decks were original and by replacing some of the planks in high wear areas and dealing with the worn dowels I kept the deck in good shape for 31 years by the time I sold the boat.
From memory, I removed the old dowels and marked a drill with tape so that I didn't go too far and used a 10mm drill bit. I put the screw back with Sikaflex then fitted new 10mm teak dowels with epoxy and orbital sanded the dowel. After doing the initial job, I used to find typically another five to do each winter. My current boat, Black Tie, Swan 47/056 had modern teak decks fitted 10 years ago with no dowels to deal with. Gavin

Gavin,
as far as I understand your approach differs substantially from Philippe´s because you restored the original screws in their position. Actually I tend to agree more with Philippe because I don´t see how much what remains at the bottom of the screw hole in the old plank can sustain the plank itself. If the screw only use is to fill a space, then epoxy is better.
On the other hand I would like to ask Philippe how did he keep the planks in place while the epoxy catalyzed - if he needed it. In my case I would need it in some places where the planks have actually lifted from the deck.

Discussing on how to restore a worn teak deck: has anybody tried to deepen the rabbets of the planks while in place?

Daniel, 411-004

Daniel

No problem to deepen the rabbets if you have the proper tool - a small circular saw with guides each end for staying in the groove, and with depth adjustment. Guess you have to assemble one yourself.

Best regards

Lars

Lars,
your advice is very welcome because using a small circular saw seems much easier than using a router as I thought necessary. I wonder if you have more precise indications on possible hand tools. I guess the blade could be already of the right thickness to avoid passing several times.
I understand that the work can be also done without power tools and with a properly shaped iron but it is surely harder.

Daniel, 411-004

Hello Daniel and Lars,

To keep the plank in place whilst the epoxy is curing I use blocks of lead. These are heavy, are in a parallelepiped shape, about 250X15X10 mm and do the job very well.

As for the rabbets, I think that I might have the solution: some years ago I purchased a so called power tool of the brand FEIN with an endless of devices to be fitted on it for different applications. This is a machine that vibrate very fast instead of rotating. It is extremely efficient and very stable. For the Rabbets there exists purposeful cutting blades that do the job masterly and perfectly well. The result is clean and very professional. The blades have an ending in the shape of the rabbets and come for 4,5,6 mm rabbets and so on.

The Fein machine can also be used to remove the caulking. Very easy. 

Please see this link: http://www.fein.de/marine/us/en/repairs/teakdecks.html

I hope this helps

Philippe (47/050)