Teakdeck
upon several years with ad hoc repairs on original deck from 1979, finally decided to have it all replaced. Checked with four suppliers for such job and ended up with Finnish teakdeck specialist through Nautor Spareparts. Result was an immaculate new deck, now attached to boat with vacuumpressured epoxy system so no srews and plugs. Cost? this job certainly expensive but relatively fair. Deck was produced in Ostrobothnia and forwarded on truck to Norway (2000 km) in six large peaces plus cockpit peaces, about 200 kilos total. A container of tools and equipment followed on same truck. Two well dedicated craftsmen arrived at same time and everything seemed extremely well planned, completing job at their estimated time. (no surprise) As an example on their efficency; all hardware and original deck was removed and deck faired in three days. Total job, 17 days. Boat has really become a Yacht again.

Thorbjorn, Ravn 411/36

Dear Thorbjorn,

Fantastic!  Beautiful.  I think you will be the envy of everyone who sees your beautiful yacht!  Money is not wasted on these beauties.

Thank you for sharing the pictures.  Please send more!

Chris  Mabel's Casse Tete 43/003

Just for curiosity: are the teak planks glued on a substrate layer of some material? A pre-assembled deck usually needs this.

Daniel, 411/004

It is a really a beautiful job for a preassembled deck. It looks like the deck trims circling the roof have been laid before with some screws..
The colour of the wood has a nice warm tanned tonality. Usually it is lighter and more pink. Is there a finish with some vaselin or another oil?
Great job,
Matteo, Grampus 47/016o

Many thanks comments. There was no oil or other treatment added to deck for finish, just sandpaper-work with not so very fine corning. How deck otherwise was built, would recommend to approach supplier in Finland. Deck-laying procedure seemed quite heavy duty with regards epoxy attachment to hull which duly needed here north with long winters. Snow we have every year, sun(uv)during summer also every year more or less. By all means, deck will have better shelter during off season months in years ahead! Thorbjorn/Ravn 411/36

Dear Thorbjorn

The decks are beautiful!

We have just finished 44/004 Hatha's decks, and I envy you getting it done in 17 days! We still have some hand detail work and of course the foredeck hatch is in the works right now.

We used individual planks that I milled myself in my cabinet shop and glued them down with epoxy, no fasteners. We held them in place with small blocks screwed to the deck then back-filled the screw holes with epoxy as we went.

This from my wife:

Started project on 1/1/11

Boat in slip on 1/3/13

Teak started on 1/19/2013

67 work days for teak

321 pieces of teak measured and put down

92 tubes of black s**t

14 days of work for black s**t

2.5 days sanding the deck in the boat yard

Having your wife help you – priceless

Happy sailing!

Tonyh 44 004 Hatha

Dear Tonyh, Impressing, to say least. Such level craftmanship wasn`t exactly present at Ravn`s dockside
when her new deck was planned.
Happy sailing too! Thorbjorn

Daniel
For your information the teak battens are glued together without a substrate layer.
The website is http://www.stdeck.fi/
Kind regards
Lars

Some beautiful looking decks here. It would be good to have some cost comparisons as some solutions have less labour, some more materials and some have a substrate layer. Almost all of us have to do this job at some stage.

Having just had the decks on Tigris sanded and partly re caulked, I am being very careful in how I look after them and the adjacent alloy toerail.

Gavin

Baron's new deck shown here - cost was around €50,000. Same type of fitting as above - ie no screws . The supplier was Moody Decks and fitted by Berthon. Teak thickness 12mm.
David
Baron 411/33

Swan 411/33 Baron

Pippus new teak deck this year was fitted as above no screws, piece by piece, thickness 16mm, new sliding and central hatches, new prisms, around 5 months of works at well experienced Caffarena shipyard in Carasco Genoa.

Alberto
(Pippus 44-011)

Dear Alberto

Decks look beautiful!

Did Cafferena really spend 5 months on the decks and hatches or was there other work involved?

In my own case that's about what I've spent on mine all told, but it's hard to believe. If Cafferena spent about the same amount of time I'll feel much better!

Happy Sailing!

Tonyh 44/004 Hatha

Good work before the teak as glued

Exquisite details of the good work

Hello,

The pics were send before the text: Yes, the Swedes are also excellent in matters of the teak deck. Let me mention the fact that they did quite an elaborated job on the deck before applying the teak: epoxying and gel coating it all into a new state. Then, the teak went on, Vacuum glued of course,

Cheers//Philippe

Dear Tonyh,
5 months of work was needed also to find a new the mast with an original oval profile, painting, rigging and equipment, winches overhaul etc.
Probably the teak deck job last 10 weeks.

Anyway you did a great job in a reasonable time !

Congratulation.

Alberto
(Pippus 44-011)

Dear all,

though I'd use this thread for my question - we are looking to potentially replace the teak deck on Kairos this Summer to 'put to good use' what unfortunately looks like is going to be (yet another) pretty disappointing, almostun-plannable sailing season in Europe.

I've read the above posts with interest but am getting a bit confused by the different thicknesses of teak deck mentioned - 12 mm, 16 mm - the quote we have at the moment is for 8 mm Burma teak, which sounds rather thin in comparison ...

Suppose thicker is better (within reason) but what would be a typical (sufficient) thickness for a new teak deck? If anyone would have the thickness of the original teak deck installed by Nautor on the 57's that would also be great.

Thank you and fair winds,

Stefan

Kairos (57/043)

Dear Stefan,

it's up to you. A thicker teack deck is going to last longer than a thinner one, but more heavy of course.

A caulking with a depth of no less than 8 mm (which obliges you to go for a total thickness of about 12 mm) is going to last for more years. Re-caulking, is an awfully expensive job (and you are likely to make small demages when getting rid of the traces of old worn Sika <or similar>), so my opinion is you have to postpone it to the farthest date the possible.

If a teack deck is 8 mm I imagine the caulking will have a depth of about 4 mm. (?), which means you will need re-caulking in ... 8/12 years.

I have Vanessa's deck replaced last year, 12 mm of "Rigatino" Burma teack, planks 4,5 to 7,30 m long, and a caulking of 8 mm of depth. I am happy with it. The difference between 10 and 12 mm was not much. The big difference is when you want long planks and first quality "rigatino".

Attached some pics of final job

Fair winds!

mattepo (47/069 Vanessa)

Dear Matteo,

thank you for your quick reply - Vanessa's new deck looks stunning, well done! Hope we'll get as close as possible to this result for Kairos ...

The re-chaulking is a very valid point, we had some small'ish areas re-chaulked in the last few years; takes a lot of man hours = expensive.

I suppose the 4 mm of teak depth not usable for chaulking is due to the bed of (epoxy?) glue that the planks are bedded in?

It certainly makes sense to get this right now and then (hopefully) omit the need for any re-working required for as long as possible.

Will enquire for more than 8 mm of thickness I think, and also for 'Rigatino' Burma teak ... you got me hooked!

Thanks again,

Stefan

Kairos - 57/043

Dear Stefan,

I think so, 4 mm not enough; standard is 6, I asked 8 to the shipyard where my declk has been redone. If Kairos still has the original (screwed) teack deck one of the important think is to close every single old screw hole (see attached photo of job done on Vanessa's deck, about 2,000 pins glued on old holes...argh!).

Fair winds!

matteo (47/069 Vanesa)

Hi Matteo,

thank you, this is extremely helpful - especially the information on the screw holes and the pictures!

Kairos' current deck appears to be one of the 'prefabricated' types where whole sections of teak were glued to a base (FRP, I believe) first. The section were then glued to the deck and it appears that the bond between deck and base was either not done properly or is nearing the end of its life.

There are some screws in the teak but only on the outside planks - we will ask for them to be properly plugged as per your photos. I can imagine that time spent on preparing the deck base is most important to avoid issues later on.

Had another chat with our boat yard - they said that since they are glueing the teak planks indivially and use 'tradtional' planks and glueing methods i.e. no prefabricated distance pieces or 'click-system' that are part of the teak planks and would therefore decrease the chaulking depth they can achieve an 8 mm chalking depth even for 8mm thick planks.

Nevertheless we are likely to go for 10 mm or 12 mm thickness instead of the 8 mm.

Thanks again for help,

fair winds,

Stefan

Kairos (57/043)

Dear Stefan,

please keep us posted on the proceeding of your re-decking when it will be done, I don't know this technique and I am very interested to learn more!

Happy you don't have to close thousands of small screw holes, yes, as you have said it was a demanding job, but absolutely necessary in order to have the deck completely waterproof before you laid down the new planks!

Fair winds!

matteo (47/069 Vanessa)